so....very....close

Which leads us to today.  Here is a note to avoid haste in such an endeavor as this.  I've made all the electrical connections, attached and checked all of the CIS lines and hoses and sanded/cleaned/repainted the last pieces of engine tin.

I've gotten my engine down off of the stand.  I have only to attach the oil cooler, cross-over pipe & clutch and she's ready to be installed.

So I go to attach said clutch.  And I don't instantly see the torque value for pressure plate bolts.  I am directed to the 101 projects book for clutch install.  Please note that one of my generous supporters has sent me a .pdf of the 911 SC manual with all of these values.  I don't use that of course I gloss through the wrong spot somewhere else and proceed to try and torque bolts down to 3+ times their end value.  In doing so I strip one out and then break off 2 more.  I've been told that the flywheel is probably fine and these bolts murder themselves well before it will.  I'll find that out later this week.

So that's my don't be a dumbass note for the day, when you are tired and just want a little more done, stop.  Take a break and keep doing it the RIGHT way checking things before $^&#*^$ them up!

Fuel Injection Issues (CIS Lines)

I've dealt with FI issues in my car since day one.  I'm sure I have a long way to go but I've made some strides in this area recently.  I found out only a very short time ago that a leading source on the remaining world market of CIS components (used in old Porsches, Mercedes, Ferraris & Deloreans amoung others) does business not 40 miles from me.  I've now become acquainted with said gentleman and happily soaking up his wealth of knowledge on getting fuel [properly] to my engine.

This is BAD

One, I had to get a new fuel pump to get the car running several years ago, in my own new 911 owner ignorance I used a 1/4" fuel line from the auto parts store for the 3' or so run from the pump to the filter in the engine bay......this is bad as we are supposed to have these super high pressure nylon lines there.

I learned from my visit how to make a wooden jig to aid in [properly] mounting the barbed end pieces.  I drilled in a block of wood, the bit I used was right at the same size as the line, then I cut that in half with a scroll saw.  The blade width makes that hole just a tiny bit smaller than the line.

Note that this was version 1.0, made of cedar IIRC.  It died in the creation of the first line (after seated).  Version 2.0 was made out of some 3/4" cabinet grade ply I had hanging around and is holding up very nicely.

None of this is rocket science, these lines seemed intimidating at first but as with most things after doing it once it's pretty simple.  I'm not ground breaking anything but I'm pleased with myself so you get to read about it (deal with it :D )

There was one line I had to attach to an existing coupler residing in the engine bay.  These grips are incredibly strong and hold fast with soft faces.  They made a nice portable vice and I was able to muscle in the coupler without issue.

So now I have nicely plumbed incoming and return fuel lines.

This shot also shows off my newly cleaned, painted engine bay and also my nice new sound mat.

Here is my marked up picture of the proper CIS line routing in case it actually helps someone else.

Ebay Engine Yoke update

I kinda already knew this but with this yoke truly and securely mounted to the bell housing there is no way you are going to mount the oil cooler, cross-over pipe or install the clutch.  None of this is a really big deal and can be done once it's off the stand but just so it's out there.....

Panic Attacks & Hemmeriodal Tasks

Today I have begun "closing up" my motor.  I have timed, closed cams and installed, adjusted valves.  This was the 2nd of the tasks I was rather dreading and proved to be worthy of the angst.  I have found that while Wayne's book is remarkably comprehensive and an invaluable resource it still expects that one has at least a general understanding of how these things work and the ability to improvise or figure out a few things.

First the panic:

Note my rather ingenious application of "idler pulley tensioners".  You are supposed to keep a good deal of pressure on the chains via the idlers for setting the cam timing.  I don't have the mechanical tensioner for the right side and quickly discovered these clamps I use for woodwork w/ nice soft faces and very strong ratcheting give an excellent hold on the pulleys.

Either I missed it (even after re-reading a couple of times) or it really is glossed over but I had my cam nuts tightened down (but no pin installed yet) from the previous step.  When I started the timing procedure by getting the crank to TDC I found at about 800° my engine locked and wouldn't turn.  Turn back an equal amount and the same.  Here is where panic set in (seeing some forgotten step and a teardown coming).  But I fought it back and began to deduce why, quickly I found that the #4 intake rocker I'd just installed was making the valve hit the piston.

So I deduced one is supposed to have those nuts loose so the cams can spin irrespective of the crank position.  Duh! in retrospect but like I said this seems a bit of info taken for granted.

The rest of the timing went smoothly, following step by step, managing to keep the needle right in the middle of the setting range, but it was hardly a barrel of monkeys.  I'm sure this gets easier after the first go round as do many things but it's tedious and nerve racking that first.

Then came getting the [newly rebuilt] tensioners in place.  I don't have the P214 tool, but an internet search suggested several methods to get the job done without it.  I ended up with the big ass screwdriver method. 

That worked on the left side, but the right wasn't having it.  So I improvised.  For the record, faced with having to do this again I think I'll order the little piece of bent metal intended for this job or make one myself.  I got it done but I feared for putting too much stress on something getting there.

 I then installed the safety collars that probably saved my engine while my tensioners were out of oil.

I got the back of the engine all buttoned up and went on to install the rest of the rockers and meticulously adjust all the valves.  Now that chore, even though not particularly enjoyable IS much much easier with the engine on a stand as opposed to stuffed in the back of a fine piece of German engineering.

Feel like I'm actually getting somewhere!

Ups and Downs and the generosity of others

I continue to be surprised and heartened by the willingness of others to lend a hand with no expectation of compensation in this little Porsche community of ours.

I've now gotten a little farther having added my cam chain towers.  I had to make a judgement call due to finances not to spend the $800-1k that new Carrera Tensioners go for.  But when I pulled mine out of the bag I put them in 6 months ago and started to fiddle with them I noticed one could be compressed quite easily by hand and the other could not.  I posed this question to the community and was quickly enlightened that the easily compressed one was certainly not operating properly.

I put the picture above on my build thread on Pelican and I also sent a little side question about the same to our local Porsche whisperer.  He quickly diagnosed by the pictures that BOTH of my tensioners were woefully sagging but told me if I'd put them in the mail to him he'd rebuild them for me.  So off to him they went the next morning.  Here is where I found out what several of the little o-rings in my seal kit went to (nothing is noted anywhere just where each thing in these multiple plastic bags go)  apparently these ARE meant to be rebuilt.  I'd like to note that although every single resource reading up on a rebuilt says you just plain HAVE TO replace these babies with the later version I've now heard from several old hands that they are perfectly serviceable (and I'm going w/ that since I now have a nice new set and don't have all that extra $ laying around burning a hole in my pocket.

He sent me this little exploded diagram, I had tried briefly to disassemble them without getting too far and was all too happy to take him up on his offer to fix them for me.

And here is what I got back, quite a difference:

Current thoughts:  I'm somewhere between awe that my car seemed to run as well as it did, and relived that I think I did stave off impending disaster when I took her off the road.  My chain tensioners were both not doing their job, they had failure collars on but they were installed backwards so doing no good whatsoever.  I had 2 fully broken springs with fragments roaming around the case, I kinda assume there were other springs [that are now all new] that were sagging and ready to pop.  I had 1 valve not seating properly and all my exhaust guides were worn.  And I haven't gotten back there yet but my airbox has a huge crack in it (no wonder I've fought so many FI tuning issues).  

I'm getting closer, still need to step it up as there is a show in late March I'd like to be driving this wonderful beast to.